I glued the side pieces in just at the fronts, and the back piece in at both ends but not in the middle. So on the inside of the case, two shelf supports, one on each side, and then one across the back, so the shelf (nominal 16x24 inches) is supported on three sides already. For this I cut plywood strips at 7 7/8 inches because I am a rebel, I had WAF for 8' vertical shelf spacing. With all the glue dry again, on the now stable case the clamps can go away. Everywhere else, once this glue was dry, I was within 1/8 inch and that was a good feeling. There is one spot where my errors stacked to put the exterior case 1/4 inch out. Next step once that glue was dry was to tip the fool thing upright (still in clamps), and then glue in the three shelves one at a time without anything going out of square. I worked to the 1/16 inch and was looking for errors not greater than 1/8 inch throughout.

For gluing the two side panels to the back panel I used fish glue from Lee Valley for the long open time - which I needed to get everything square. I used precut shelves slightly undersized as guides for square and something to clamp to.

Then I trimmed the fixed shelf supports back to serve as guides when gluing the two sides to the back panel.įor glue up the back panel was on saw horses with a vertical side on each edge. There are no through hull penetrations in the finished item.įirst I selected the pieces I wanted for the exterior sides, and then glued on fixed shelf supports for the top middle and lowest shelves times two. If I invoke stern I mean the bottom shelf, bow would be the topmost shelf. Glue up was as for a plywood boat ala Dynamite Payson. Having let go of 'earthquake proof' as a design goal, further separating each shelf vertically so the labels on the jar tops could be read for elevated wife approval factor was accepted as a design constraint.

No dados were made in this project, but the pile of plywood in the overcrowded garage is much reduced. Pic four was previously posted in the design section here, showing continuous vertical plywood casing, then 8 scale inch wide pieces of plywood as shelf supports. Once the unit is in the pantry room I want to find the studs in the wall blah, blah, the hope is to coil the wire through both brackets twice before closing the threaded connector. One of the metal bits gets attached to the wall, one to the back of the shelving, than the flexible wire with threaded connector to attach the two together. Pic two shows a half pint jar of salmon and a pint jar of potato behind the shelf lip, lips are 1 9/16 tall. Pic one is the finished item upright and ready to be moved to the pantry room. Instead of a drop edge, each shelf features a shelf lip to both stiffen the shelf and to prevent canning jars from just sliding off the front edge without some pretty serious jiggling going on.Ģ0220815_164609.jpg 20220815_165450.jpg 20220815_170635.jpg 20220727_002450.jpg The first casualty of the design phase was the idea of 'earthquake proof.' Mama nature has a way of making bigger earthquakes later, so I let go of that idea early on.

Shelf wire for earth quaik